Ramallah

The time I spent in the West Bank enticed me. I wanted to see more.

I wanted to go back and see the lives lived by the people there.

This desire drew me towards the hub of politics and commerce in the West Bank.

It drew me towards Ramallah.
This city is effectively the capital of the West Bank. It is also the economic centre for the people here.... for what economic activity that still happens anyway.

Everywhere I wandered, I was greeted by smiling faces! I couldn't believe how friendly everyone was. Regardless of where I was in the West Bank, I was shown kindness.

.... I also found the funnier side of the West Bank as well!

Walling Off

Leaving Hebron was a very interesting experience. Looking at our watches, we realised that we were late. Very late.

The last bus from Hebron to Bethlehem was leaving soon and we didn't really feel like paying the extra price for a taxi.

So... we ran.

Mike and I were off (though he was soon wheezing) and before long we were through the souq and moving quickly towards the bus stop.

Kamil on the other hand was not so lucky. While we were running, he decided that the call of nature was stronger than our need to get to the bus. He ran off to the side to fix this problem while Mike and I continued running.

That's where the problems began. After Mike and I were well out of the souq, Kamil was able to start running again. However, instead of the nice empty souq.... he was confronted by a squad of IDF doing their patrol.....

He was of course stopped.... questioned.... and frisked.....

It seems running passed the IDF in the middle of Hebron isn't the best of ideas.

Eventually we found Kamil again, still running and the three of us finally made it to the bus stop.

It didn't matter. We had missed the bus.

But thankfully a service taxi drove straight passed us so it was all fine.
Back in Bethlehem, we started to walk back to the crossing out of the West Bank.
It's a sad situation... houses and lands completely split up.
No one on either side seems happy with this situation.
But the art work all along the walls and the adjacent buildings were both spectacular and inspiring.
Hopefully they are a sign of the better times that will come.

The Patriarchs

Bethlehem was an interesting place to visit. But being in the West Bank, my friends and I decided that it was the perfect time to go deeper. To go further into the Palestinian territories.

After all.... we were there already!

We looked at the map we had and decided that based on where we were, the best direction to head would be south!

So we went to Hebron.

Hebron is one of the most tension filled places in the West Banks. Whilst the Jewish settlers in other parts of the West Bank live in settlements isolated from the Arab population, here in Hebron they live intermingled.

Lovely....

Whilst sitting on the bus to Hebron, Kamil mentioned to us that someone had been shot and killed by the IDF in Hebron the day before. Again.... lovely.

When we reached the place, we were surprised by just how friendly and welcoming the people were. Everywhere we went, people wanted to stop and say hello to us.

We continued walking through the city and eventually we reached a long and windy souq. Sadly, the souq was almost deserted. What could easily be one of the most beautiful and bustling souqs in the Middle East was nothing more than a empty side street, the only noise being the occasional yells of children and the repetitive march of IDF boots.
Eventually we reached the end of the souq. Security gates were waiting for us. We were trying to get in further because it was here that the Ibrahimi Mosque is situated.

After a long wait and two security checks. We managed to get through.

At first, we were unsure about what the fuss was. There was nothing much to see. We were on the verge of turning around and going back to Jerusalem.

But just as we were about to walk out, an old man in the mosque motioned us to walk in further. We followed his smiling advice and continued in further.

What we found was beyond comprehension.
This was the tomb of the Patriarchs.

Abraham, Sarah, Jacob, Leah, Isaac and Rebecca.
Their cenotaphs all stood silently, representing what had come before.

However, in the middle of the great room, was a small well.
This well led to a cave where it was believed that the Patriarchs were actually buried.
Standing next to the cenotaph of Isaac! Standing above the cave that legend claims Adam and Eve are lying in!
Every step I take in this land, I see more and more that leaves me completely astounded.

Silent Night

I wanted to wander out of Jerusalem.

I had been there a few days and the intensity of religious and political fervour is almost intoxicating. I decided I wanted to go to Bethlehem to have a look at the famed church.

Early one morning, I headed off with a few new friends I had made in the hostel.

After passing through the Israeli security wall, we found ourselves in the West Bank. A short walk took us to the Church of the Nativity.
Inside, the atmosphere is very Eastern. The remnants of the Byzantines is still there and the Church remains under the care of the Greek Orthodox Church.
It definitely creates an interesting feeling....
I wandered through the main hall, which unsurprisingly gives the feeling of being inside a barn.
And underneath the main hall, was the sacred place itself. The place where Jesus Christ was said to have been born.

Once again, as with so many places I had visited, it was breath taking.

The Beautifully White Mijas

The beautiful town of Mijas.

Picturesque and stunning.
Selma and I sat on the train for a bit to get out there.

But it was completely worth it.
A whitewashed Spanish town on the side of a mountain, drenched in sun and with an ever present sea breeze.

Tasty almonds too....
.... I like almonds....


Selma had her fun too.

The Alcazaba

Aunty Selma and I went to the old Moorish ruins.

Underneath these Moorish ruins was an old Roman theatre. Apparently Antonio Bandares used to perform there when it was used recently for plays. Selma was definitely excited.
The ruins were amazing...

But tiring to climb.

From halfway up, we could see the Plaza de Toros.


Cool and calming.

Death of a bull

I went to my first bullfight!

Selma and I were walking by the bullfighting arena when we noticed that a fight was about to begin.

We couldn't not go!

Inside, we were immediately treated to the pomp and ceremony of the event.

The band played and the matadors and their followers marched in.

After the bull had been softened up, the star matador took centre stage.

It was like a slow but precise dance.
As the climax approached, the band began to play again ... building the drama and the suspense.
But eventually, the it was time for the bull to die.The bullfight was definitely one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life.

The grace and poise of the matador, the thrill of the event and the death of the bull...

Was it a barbaric thing? Possibly...

But it was also a beautiful thing to watch.

Costa del Sol

I went to Malaga!

My Aunt Selma randomly messaged me telling me to go and visit her in Spain....

Why not I thought.

I jumped on a flight and I before I knew it I was out of the London cold and in the middle of the Andalucian heat.

It was still early in the morning so I caved to my inner tourist and went for churros and chocolate.
God it was tasty.

Tapas would follow later in the day with Aunt Selma.
But the first thing we did was go to church!!!!
Being a Sunday, we managed to walk into the main cathederal in Malaga as the service was beginning.
So I was able to attend Mass and take Holy Communion.... in Malaga....