I didn't expect to find such a beautiful Christian enclave in the middle of Cairo. Coptic Cairo is a perfectly preserved artifact of a Cairo that is slowly disappearing. Were it merely the gradual change in demographics that was causing this, that would be understandable, but sadly there a greater forces at play forcing this change in Cairo.
I had expected that it would be difficult to reach Coptic Cairo, but nothing could be further from the truth. I took the Cairo metro and within 15 minutes I was at my station. Arriving at the beautifully named station "Mar Girgris", or St George station, I could see out the windows of the carriage the church spires rising out of the grey mass of buildings.
I could not help but think back to my time in Sharm El-Shaikh and my conversations with my guide about the relationship between the Christians and Muslims in Egypt. I'm certain his assertions of their shared love of Egypt and their friendships were true, but sadly it seems that a very vocal minority is changing that for all Egyptians.