The approach of Luxor was a very welcome relief.
I wanted off the cruise ship from hell. Being trapped in the boredom had been bad. Being trapped there whilst being horribly sick was a particularly intense form of torture. At one point, I had been reduced to laying on my bed using all my remaining energy to stop being violently ill.
As I walked off the gang plank for the final time, I could see that there was already another challenge ahead of me. There was only one taxi. Another fun experience was about to begin.
The haggling the taxi driver used was the usual style of aggressive lies. I barely bat an eyelid as I tersely refused all of his demands for outrageous prices. His claims ranged from the ridiculous, that Luxor was very far away (I could see it) through to the bluffs that he would drive away (he would never drive away from a potential fare). Eventually we settled on a fare that I was willing to suffer. As the yelling and violent gesticulating were going on, three very quiet and meek Chinese backpackers had also walked off the ship. They looked at the screaming match with what I can only describe as looks of terrified confusion. There were no other taxis, so I offered to split my taxi with them. The driver's eyes grew wider and he began to demand the same fare multiplied by four. I screamed back at the driver and told him that no such thing would occur. I felt bad for the these three kids. They wore the newest and brightest North Face wind breakers and had plastic looking backpacks that I was certain would rip at the slightest rough treatment. They were lambs to the slaughter in a country like Egypt. I had a brief chat to them in the taxi in a bizarre mixture of English, Mandarin and Cantonese and told them exactly what to pay the driver. I somehow doubt they would have listened to my advice.
My hostel in Luxor was the strangely named "Bob Marley House". It was very basic, but clean enough.
I stopped by a small pastry store and bought some baklava and kept walking further away from the hostel and the bright lights of the souqs.